Count Ulrich and Countess Katrin Goëss‐Enzenberg, along with their daughters, Vittoria and Philline, offer a warm welcome to the majestic Tratzberg Castle.
Tucked away in Jenbach, Austria, with a backdrop of imposing mountains and serene landscapes, the estate reveals a hidden but equally enchanting side of Tyrol, one where every corner whispers stories of centuries past. A late‐Gothic masterpiece, Tratzberg dates back to at least the 13th century.
It was used as a border fortress against Bavaria and as a hunting lodge by Maximilian I of Habsburg, the Holy Roman Emperor, in the 15th century. A fire destroyed it in 1492, and the emperor exchanged the ruins for another estate. The property then passed through various hands, with the castle being redeveloped in several phases, but it was left vacant before being acquired by the Counts of Enzenberg in 1847.
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIOToday, thanks to the family's dedicated stewardship and meticulous approach, it has been restored to its full splendour, standing as the quintessential 16th‐century Tyrolean castle and one of the region's most significant artistic and cultural landmarks. A descendant of Empress Maria Theresa, Emperor Maximilian I and Philip the Handsome, Count Ulrich was raised surrounded by the history of his family's estates. He spent his childhood summers at Tratzberg, which at that time was owned by his maternal uncle.
After nine years at boarding school in Salzburg, he studied business administration at the University in Vienna and Innsbruck, then spent several years travelling and working in the tourism and marketing sectors. Aged 35, he inherited Tratzberg from his uncle, Count Georg Enzenberg, and Georg's wife, Elisabeth, Princess Esterházy. This was also the time when Ulrich met his own future wife, Katrin.
Katrin, how did your relationship with Ulrich begin?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''We met through a mutual friend who was convinced that we would be the perfect couple.
''At the time, I found it completely ridiculous and said no, but she organised a blind date without either of us knowing that we were going to be introduced. That's how our story began.''
What were your impressions when you first stepped through the castle's gates?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''I was 28 and not yet married when I arrived here on a cold and sombre February day. We went up the hill and I admit that I was scared, not knowing what to expect around the next bend.
''When the castle appeared through the fog, it looked grey and a bit menacing. But as I crossed through the gate and discovered the beautiful Renaissance courtyard, my heart skipped a beat. I was completely captivated by the magic of the place.''
What led you to make the castle your home?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Initially, we intended to convert one of the beautiful old farmhouses into our private home, but at some point, I confessed to my husband that it could be a mistake.
''Ulrich didn’t grow up [in the castle] and if our children didn't, either, they wouldn't feel as if it was their home.
''One only protects what one loves and they needed to grow up with that bond to ensure that the house, with all its hefty upkeep, remained a living, breathing home.''
There's a strong sense of family unity here. Tell us about your daughters...
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''I have two daughters who are very different, each with her own strengths. They are both very involved in the running of Tratzberg.
''Vittoria, our elder daughter, has been with us full-time for two years, and Philline has spent the past two years completing her MBA at IESE in Barcelona and Yale University in the US. Vittoria also studied economics. She's a bit more introverted but exceptionally organised, meticulous and attentive to detail.
''Philline is the extrovert, tremendously creative and bursting with ideas, with interests in almost everything. I'm so proud of them and of the fact that we are all so close.''
'Our daughters needed to grow up in the castle to ensure that it remained a living, breathing home'
What values have you aimed to instil in them?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''I always placed a great deal of importance on empathy – for other people, for animals and for the environment. I've taught my daughters to notice even the smallest beetle and to appreciate every flower, in the hope of passing on a deep respect for God and all of creation.
''I've also tried to speak to them openly about their feelings and have encouraged them to think of those less fortunate than themselves.
''Today, I believe they've grown into wonderful people who are playing their part in making the world a better place.''
Can you share any anecdotes about living in the castle?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Things took a rather unsettling turn when one of our daughters, who was around five at the time, began waking up at night, insisting that a ghost was visiting her. She said it was a dead woman.
''The extraordinary part was when we discovered an old ancestral portrait of a woman in the castle and realised that everything my daughter had described about her was true.
''To calm her, we held a mass for the ghost and it disappeared, at least for two or three years. When she eventually returned, we held another mass to help her finally rest.''
Vittoria, you can trace your lineage back to Maximilian I. What does this heritage represent to you?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''It is a source of immense pride to be adescendant of Maximilian I, whose grandvision is so evident here at Schloss Tratzberg.
''Often referred to as The Last Knight, he modernised the Holy Roman Empire while remaining true to his chivalrous ideals and was a magnificent patron of both the arts and the sciences.
''His ambition strengthened the Habsburg dynasty and left an enduring legacy throughprojects such as the Triumphal Arch and his lifelong cultural patronage.
''I also share family ties with Empress Maria Theresa, which enriches this heritage further. To carry forward the legacy of such remarkable figures and to act as a custodian of this castle is both a privilege and a deeply personal link to Austria's imperial past.''
Tell us about the family traditions that defined your childhood...
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Growing up here was magical. As a child, I loved playing hide-and-seek, taking part in the elaborate treasure hunts my mother organised, dressing up as a ghost and even sneaking through the secret passages.
''These memories have stayed with me and have instilled a love of history and the castle's unique atmosphere.
''Our family traditions are deeply rooted in the close ties we share with our wider family. We treasure those gatherings where all the relatives get together to celebrate, share stories and nurture the bonds that have unitedus for generations.''
Has the castle had any notable visitors?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''It has hosted many distinguished guests over the years. Some of the most prominent include Tina Turner and the former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright.
''Furthermore, the castle has served as a location for various film productions, such as Hamilton and Wagner, which brought a dash of Hollywood glamour to these historic walls.''
Are there any legends or myths associated with the castle?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Yes. There have long been tales of a hidden subterranean passage beneath the castle, which, according to local lore, leads all the way down into the Inn Valley.''
What historical episodes have marked the castle's fascinating past?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Tratzberg served as an imperial hunting lodge for the Emperor, and after it came into my ancestors' possession, it continued to be a venue for significant gatherings.
''The castle received many illustrious guests, including Emperor Franz Joseph I and his wife, Empress Elisabeth, known as Sisi.
''More recently, in 2020, it hosted the wedding of Her Royal Highness Archduchess Gabriella of Austria, a Habsburg descendantand a niece of Grand Duke Henri ofLuxembourg, marking yet another grandchapter in its history.''
How do you approach the responsibility that comes with such a significant legacy? And what are your long-term plans for the estate?
© PALOMA ROJAS-MARCOS ALBERT & FERNANDA NAVARRO PEDROSA FOR COUCHE STUDIO''Our main goal is to preserve the castle’s historical integrity while ensuring that it remains a vibrant connection between past and present. Looking ahead, we are committed to a programme of restoration projects to preserve the castle's unique architecture and art.
''We also hope to enrich the visitor experience with more immersive and exclusive offerings, such as private tours and events in which my family is personally involved, adding a personal touch to every visit.
''I am also deeply passionate about the natural environment surrounding the castle, including its forests. I see potential in aligning that with my interests in health and sustainable food, and I am exploring projects that draw on our local ecosystem, such as a venture focused on medicinal mushrooms.”
