It’s around this time of year, when the London skies are greyed with rainclouds and our favourite waterproofs have taken a battering, that we look to the ocean for inspiration. From palm-tree flanked tropical vistas to quaint British seaside panoramas, the coast provides some much needed respite from the metropolitan hustle and bustle.
Fashion feels this particularly strongly. With most editors cooped up in their offices all day, the industry yearns to feel the sea breeze on their micro-needled skin - yet a limited number of holiday days means taking time off isn’t always easy.
Enter the sailor collar - the nautical silhouette doing the rounds this season. Also known as the tar flap, the collar features a broad, square-back shape in shades of navy a white. The distinctive style originated in the early 19th century as a utilitarian piece of maritime uniform, designed to keep tar, hair powder, and grease from spoiling officers’ jackets.
Thanks to Queen Victoria, the look was popularised in 1840, when the royal dressed her son, a young Prince Albert, in a child’s version. Today, sailor collars have been adopted by brands including Miu Miu, Dior and Chanel - the latter of which famously showcased a beloved cream-crimson edition for the maison’s Pre-Fall 2018 Métiers d’Art Collection.
The cult brands quickly caught on, with Bode and Rixo opting for nostalgic dress iterations while Maje and Sandro paired the cut with Parisian-chic knitwear. Sailor themes appeared most recently for Ferragamo’s Pre-Fall 2026 collection. For the collection, creative director Maximilian Davis took inspiration from the Italian wardrobe and its resonance with a Caribbean sensibility, saying: “Everything is connected by the ocean and that idea of the water connecting people and places led me to looking at sailors, and the space they were navigating to discover new beginnings.”
Nautical stripes plucked from the Ferragamo archives were coolly applied to scarf dresses draped in silk, and fluid knitwear, in addition to classic sailor collars, high-waisted sailor trousers and low-slung pencil skirts. Sea shanties at the ready, because the siren pull of the sailor collar is clearly is not ready to soften this spring.
A playful marriage of naval dress codes and fashion-forward functionality, sailor collars are the perfect fusion of childlike fun and ‘Quiet Luxury’ polish. Shop our favourites below.
Sailor collars to shop in 2026:
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