It used to be a given that once a denim trend hit the high street, the jeans we'd all be wearing were set in stone – for at least a year or two. Investing in the designated ‘It’ jean meant we’d know the cornerstones of our wardrobe were on-trend. Not to mention it made shopping for denim less brutal.
In the Noughties, it was all about the low-rise bootcut (Atomic Kitten had a lot to answer for), then in the 2010s, for an entire decade, skinny jeans were the only style to be seen in. Who didn't have a wardrobe full of Topshop Leighs or Jonis in every shade?
Yes, occasionally there were minor adjustments to the decreed style – remember when ripped skinny jeans were in, or when we all bought them in primary colours?
Yet it was still easy to know what was ‘in’, simply keeping an eye on how Kate Moss was wearing hers was a sure-fire way.
Then, pre-lockdown, no one wanted to be seen dead in skinnies – we ditched them in favour of the infinitely more forgiving Mom jeans or mumfluencer dungarees.
Last year, we were all rattled when a previously unknown species hit the racks – the tricky-to-master, but deeply cool, barrel leg.
But it hit me recently, I have no idea what jeans are in right now, and a browse in H&M to find a new pair sent me into tailspin – every jean style from past, present and future was on display, with no clear hierarchy about which were the ‘it’ fits to buy.
© Getty ImagesAlongside barrel legs, I clocked flares, wide-leg, extra-wide leg, 90s straight leg, boot-cut, baggy fit, extra baggy fit and then - and I did a double take – a rack full of skinny jeans. Yes, it seems they’re back.
A panicky Google confirmed it according to Vogue, and, if that wasn’t enough evidence, Topshop is restocking Jonis again on ASOS.
As a Gen X who is used to committing the decreed denim style of the moment and staying faithful until a clear successor emerges, I spiralled. Shopping for jeans can trigger a meltdown at the best of times, but after trying on six wildly different looks, and talking myself out of panic-buying an emotional support pair of skinny jeans, I left, empty handed.
So why is there so much denim confusion right now? I asked stylist and fashion editor Sorrel Kinder (@sorrelkinder). ‘Denim trends are no longer only dictated by the catwalk or celebrities – social media now plays a huge part in accelerating niche trends that otherwise might not have made it into the mainstream and high street retailers now have the technology and manufacturing techniques to jump on these emerging trends and get them into stores, fast.’
She also thinks denim has become more cross-generational and therefore, different style demands from different generations mean retailers need to ensure broader ranges which appeal to their customers from Boomers to Gen A.
So which jeans are really ‘in’ right now?
‘Wide, straight-leg cuts with a longer ‘puddle’ style hem, that hits under or pools slightly round the ankles, are very on trend and can elongate the leg. If you prefer a looser fit, barrel or horseshoe styles are definitely here to stay – keep them streamlined by choosing high waisted and go shorter above the ankle so they don’t swamp you,’ she says, ‘If you’re petite, a high-waisted cropped jean is failsafe and an enduring, classic trend that will definitely stick around.’
More importantly, are there any fits to avoid? ‘I’m going to be steering clear of baggier styles this year in favour of more structured silhouettes – wide-leg jeans are a great compromise, since they have a looser fit but still look smart and considered.’
And, the burning question on behalf of Gen X and Millennials everywhere:
Should we really revisit skinny jeans in 2026?
‘Personally, I’m happy for skinnies to stay in the Noughties – in my 40s I feel my own style has moved on a bit,’ Sorrel admits, ‘If you’re tempted, the golden rule to making skinnies work now is to ensure your top half looks contemporary rather than 2016. So don’t wear a fitted top, try an over-sized ruffled collared shirt or a denim shirt instead - double denim is going to be everywhere this spring.’
If, like me, you can’t bring yourself to buy skinny jeans again after selling your old ones on Vinted, there is a solution.
‘A more ‘now’ and tailored denim style is the smarter, ‘cigarette’ style straight leg jeans,’ explains Sorrel, ‘These are very flattering and look fresher, contemporary and far more considered than skinny jeans, still giving you a streamlined look but it won’t feel dated.’
As for me, after some frantic online ordering and an unholy amount of Evri returns, I’ve settled on a pair of original Levi’s 501’s.
They’re straight-legged without tapering at the ankle, just high-waisted enough and above all, very flattering. It turns out, one of my current style obsessions, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, wore Levis on repeat in the 90s, but they still look fresh and fashionable today. Proof some failsafe classics don’t go out of style — panic over!
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