Barely a week goes by without a new collagen launch. From powders to add to your coffee to sachets to stir into your smoothies, supplements to support those of us on GLP1s to pills promising to plump our skin, our shelves are overwhelmed with collagens.
So, it came as a shock when, earlier this year, the efficacy of collagen was called into question, with BBC headlines declaring that collagen 'won't stop wrinkles'.
One of the detractors of collagen is renowned dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto, who co-wrote a paper on the matter, noting: "Despite widespread commercial claims, the scientific evidence for oral collagen supplementation in skin aging remains controversial and limited."
© Getty ImagesDr. Mahto pointed out that 'small, randomised control trials' had been carried out to prove the efficacy of collagen, and while they reported 'modest improvements' in wrinkle depth and hydration, these trials were often sponsored by the supplement manufacturers, causing questions over their validity.
She also notes that the results of the trials aren't consistent. Some look at the use of bovine collagen, while others investigate marine, while the dosages trialled vary, as do the durations of the trials.
"Perhaps most importantly, an overwhelming proportion of studies are industry-funded or involve authors with commercial ties to collagen manufacturers, raising concerns about selective reporting and bias. Indeed, dermatologists and researchers have grown wary that the marketing-driven popularity of collagen supplements may be outpacing the rigour of the underlying science," the report reads.
Keen to understand if the pink lemonade flavoured powder that I tap into my water each day is pointless, I spoke to a registered naturopathic nutritionist, hormone health specialist and author of The Hormone Balance Handbook, Jess Shand, for her unbiased opinion on whether it's worth taking collagen.
© Getty ImagesMany nutritionists tout the benefits of collagen, but it transpires they work with the brand they're singing the praises of, so I wanted to find someone who has no ties to certain brands. Enter Jess, who broke down the collagen controversy for me.
Why has collagen been called into question?
"Collagen has become hugely popular in recent years, and when any supplement category grows quickly, scrutiny tends to follow," Jess laments. "Much of the recent questioning comes down to the gap between marketing claims and what the evidence can realistically support.
"Some products are promoted as though they can dramatically reverse ageing or directly rebuild skin, joints, and connective tissue, which is far more ambitious than current research suggests!"
© Getty ImagesJess says claims around collagen need to be realistic, explaining: "The evidence on collagen peptides is promising, particularly for skin hydration, elasticity, and joint comfort, but the effects tend to be modest rather than transformative. Studies also vary widely in terms of dose, form, and product quality, making broad conclusions difficult."
In summary, Jess notes collagen hasn't been disproven, but it has arguably been oversold and needs to be placed into a more realistic context.
Collagen concerns
1. Collagen isn't a cure-all
Jess continues that the main issue with collagen is context. "Collagen supplements can be helpful, but they are often treated as a shortcut, when collagen production depends on far more than collagen alone.
"The body also needs adequate protein, vitamin C, zinc, copper, iron, and overall nutritional sufficiency to build and maintain healthy connective tissue."
2. Collagen quality
Quality is another concern, according to Jess. "Not all collagen supplements are created equal. Some are under-dosed, lack transparency around sourcing, or fail to specify the type and quantity of collagen peptides used, which is a clear red flag."
Different collagen and different needs
It’s worth understanding that not all collagen is the same. The two most common forms are marine collagen (from fish) and bovine collagen (from cows), and they have slightly different applications.
Marine collagen is rich in Type I collagen, the most abundant form in the skin, so it’s often used for skin-focused support such as hydration and elasticity. It can also be a suitable option for those who don’t consume red meat.
Bovine collagen contains both Type I and Type III collagen. Type III plays an important role in connective tissue and skin structure, making bovine collagen a more comprehensive option when thinking beyond skin alone, including joints, ligaments, gut lining and overall structural support.
3. Unrealistic expectations
"There are also unrealistic expectations with people relying on a supplement while overlooking the bigger drivers of collagen loss, such as smoking, UV exposure, high sugar diets, chronic stress, poor sleep, and low protein intake."
In summary? "From my perspective, collagen can be a useful addition, but it should sit on top of strong foundations rather than replace them."
Absorption issues
Much of the narrative around collagen is based on the belief that the molecules are too big to be absorbed and are thus rendered useless. Jess is quick to shut this down.
"This idea is based on an outdated oversimplification," she states. "Intact collagen molecules are large proteins, and the body doesn’t absorb them whole. Instead, proteins are broken down during digestion into smaller peptides and amino acids, which can then be absorbed."
To get around this issue, Jess explains that most supplements use hydrolysed collagen peptides, where the collagen has already been broken into smaller fragments. "These peptides appear to be absorbable, and some research suggests they may act as signalling molecules that support collagen production in the skin and connective tissue.
"The idea that collagen is 'too big' to be useful isn't accurate, but digestion and formulation still matter," Jess summarises.
The collagen break down
People also question the fact that collagen in broken down in the body and doesn't get where it's needed. Dr. Stefanie Williams, who takes collagen herself and frequently recommends it to her clients at her London clinic, Eudelo, explains: "There is a persistent misconception that oral collagen 'cannot work' because it is digested in the gastrointestinal tract. However, this reflects a basic misunderstanding of its real mechanism of action.
© Getty"Of course, ingested collagen is broken down by the digestive system into amino acids and peptides. These amino acids and peptides are absorbed into the bloodstream and have been shown to act as signalling molecules, stimulating fibroblast activity and upregulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. In essence, they provide both the substrates and the biochemical signals required for collagen neosynthesis."
What to look for in your collagen supplements
If you're feeling bamboozled by all the collagen supplements on the shelves of Boots and beyond, Jess and Dr. Stefanie give their advice on what to look for.
1. Prioritise transparency
Jess says to look for a product that is transparent, well-sourced, and clearly labelled. "It should specify the collagen type, the amount per serving, and whether it contains hydrolysed collagen peptides. Third-party testing and quality assurance are also important in such a crowded market."
2. Research dosage
"The market is saturated with low-dose products and inferior collagen sources, which are unlikely to deliver meaningful results," laments Dr. Stefanie, who says we should look for a daily dose of 10 -20 grams of collagen in powder form per day (to be dissolved in any beverage).
"In terms of source, high-quality bovine collagen is best in my opinion, as its amino acid profile and peptide composition are more closely aligned with human requirements."
The bottom line
Jess says she looks at collagen as a supportive tool rather than a solution in itself. "It can play a role in skin health, recovery, and connective tissue support, particularly during times of increased demand.
"However, it works best alongside the fundamentals: adequate protein, whole foods, healthy fats, mineral sufficiency, good sleep, and stress regulation.
"The body builds collagen in response to the environment we create daily. Supplements may support that process, but the foundations will always matter most."
As for Dr. Mahto? She remains unconvinced – at least by the trials' promising results, concluding: "Current evidence does not support the recommendation of oral hydrolysed collagen as a treatment for skin ageing."
